KANSAS CITY — “Everything old is new again” continues to trend as consumers simplify their food choices and make efforts to return to the basics to improve their health and the health of the planet. But not only is “old” new, so is “ancient” — ancient grains to be precise.

Ancient grains have been feeding humans since the beginning of civilization but have been less popular in Western countries where selectively bred and refined grains provide an economic advantage.

The US ancient grains market has been forecast to grow to $142.3 million by 2028 from $90.4 million in 2022, according to a report by TechSci Research LLC, New York. This represents a compound annual growth rate of 7.7%.

Fueling the growth is consumer interest in minimally processed and nutrient-dense foods. Ancient grains also feed consumers’ curiosity about authentic flavors and unexpected textures.

Formulators are responding through product development and educational marketing. Purely Elizabeth, Boulder, Colo., for example, is launching its first advertising campaign promoting wholesome nutrition. The campaign coincides with a strong first quarter, in which sales of Purely Elizabeth grew 56% year over year, and the company has had the top-selling granola in the natural channel for the past seven years, according to SPINS data.

The marketing campaign features a spot that imagines a world of possibilities that can result from starting small as in, say, choosing a bowl of gluten-free Purely Elizabeth granola. The spot highlights the use of organic oats and other ingredients, including the ancient grains (puffed) amaranth, quinoa and sorghum.

What is an ancient grain?

While there is no official definition of what qualifies as an ancient grain, the Whole Grains Council describes them as grains that have been largely unchanged since the beginning of time. The definition suggests modern varieties of corn, rice and wheat are not ancient grains.

Most ancient grains are available individually as whole grain flours, as well as in whole grain multigrain blends. Ancient grains also may be milled to desired granulations or not milled at all. Pre-soaked and pre-cooked grains are a value-added option.

Like all grains, ancient grains start as whole grains. They remain whole grain ingredients, meaning they are the entire seed of a plant. The kernel contains three nutrient-dense components — the bran, germ and endosperm — and when ground into a format such as flour, is defined as whole grain. Refining removes the bran and the germ, leaving only the endosperm. Without the bran and germ, about one-fourth of the protein is lost, as are many important nutrients, including fiber. These nutrients are present in ancient grains.

One component certain ancient grains lack is gluten, which makes them attractive ingredients when formulating gluten-free foods.

“Ancient grains cover a wide array of cereals (grasses) and pseudocereals (non-grasses used the same way as grass-derived grains),” said Colleen Zammer, vice president of varietal solutions growth and innovation, Bay State Milling Co., Quincy, Mass. “Amaranth, buckwheat, millet, oat, quinoa, sorghum and teff are gluten-free ancient grains and function well in applications such as crackers, flatbreads and extruded snacks. They offer a range of flavors and textures that provide some excitement to consumers beyond the typical rice and corn typically found in gluten-free foods. They can be used as the base ingredients in the flour form, or inclusions and toppings in the whole grain form.

“Ancient wheats like spelt, einkorn and emmer, which some refer to as heirloom grains, contain gluten, as does barley. They provide the structural benefits of gluten that traditional baked goods require but vary in terms of flavors, colors and even texture due to the different ratios of glutenin and gliadin.”

Some categorize chia and flax as ancient grains because of their nutrient density. They are, however, seeds, albeit also gluten-free.

Ward Hill, Mass.-based Brekki, for example, manufactures a ready-to-eat overnight oats product described as containing ancient grains. In addition to oats, the refrigerated product includes buckwheat groats, along with chia and flax seeds.

Added appeal and value

Another appealing attribute of ancient grains is that many grow and thrive with lower levels of pesticides, fertilizers and irrigation. This makes them an attractive choice for consumers who choose to shop with their carbon footprint in mind, said Nate Blum, chief executive officer, Sorghum United, Lincoln, Neb. Ancient grains are also non-GMO.

“As climate change threatens global food security, crops like sorghum and millets offer a lifeline due to their ability to thrive in harsh conditions where other crops fail,” Blum said.

These hardy qualities led the United Nations to declare 2023 as the International Year of Millets. The designation aimed to raise awareness about the health benefits and sustainability of millets. 

“Millets are an ancient grain known for their resilience and minimal resource requirements,” explained Tarrand Fiesel, vice president of sales and marketing, DakotaMB, Fargo, ND. “They can grow in arid and semi-arid regions with poor soil quality and require significantly less water and fewer fertilizers compared to more mainstream crops. Millet also has a short growing season so it can get planted when another crop fails due to adverse weather.” 

Manufacturers using ancient grains may want to leverage farm-driven narratives that link to sustainability and wellness to highlight the quality distinctions of ancient grains. And, while many ancient grains originated from varied regions around the world, today most may be sourced domestically. This adds to a “made in the US” story.

Teff, for example, has been a staple of traditional Ethiopian cooking for thousands of years. It has a mild, nutty flavor and is a good source of iron, calcium, magnesium and zinc. Today it is grown in the Southwest US, including Texas, Idaho and Nevada.

“Ancient grains lend themselves to great stories of how they were brought to the US and are cultivated in the same way as they were in ancient times,” Zammer said. “Some are grown on smaller farms and are sourced and milled in smaller batches. This allows for ‘local’ claims, which resonate with consumers who like to know exactly where their food comes from.”

Consumers also are interested in knowing the value ingredients bring to their food. For example, 67% of consumers credit quinoa as having a positive impact on the nutritional value of a finished product, while 39% credit it with positively supporting the ethical sourcing of the finished product, according to proprietary research from Ardent Mills, Denver.

This supports evidence found in Ardent Mills’ “Trend to Table Report” stating that nearly half of consumers want food that is not only “good for you” but good for the planet, said Matthew Schueller, the company’s director of marketing insights and analytics.

“Through Ardent Mills’ regenerative agriculture program, we are supporting family farms as they introduce alternative grains to their crop rotations,” Schueller said. “The addition of new crop rotations can help increase biodiversity and contribute to soil health.

“The benefits these ingredients provide farmers can extend far beyond soil health to other areas of land management such as water conservation. For example, quinoa consumption continues to rise because it is versatile, can play nicely into many trends and, in certain circumstances, offers a sustainability story as it often requires less water to grow than other grains.”

Quinoa ranges from a mild-flavored white variety to slightly nutty in earthy, darker shades. White quinoa typically is used in its intact whole seed form or as flour and flakes.

“White, red and black tri-colored quinoa may add texture and visual appeal as an inclusion in foods,” said Jessica Strouse, senior product marketing manager at Ardent Mills. “Quinoa is also a good source of fiber, iron, thiamine, riboflavin and an excellent source of folate.”

Laurie Scanlin, principal research and development scientist at Ardent Mills, added, “Quinoa remains a consumer favorite. Quinoa works well in pastas and cereals, and it’s an excellent base for meat-alternative menus.”

Sorghum is gaining traction in all types of applications due to its neutral flavor profile that pairs well with other flavors, both sweet and savory. It can be found in everything from baked foods to bowl meals to soups.

Chicago-based ADM recently added sorghum flour to its ingredient portfolio. Processed in the company’s verified net-carbon-neutral mill in Dodge City, Kan., it is made from a special white variety of sorghum that has a light color and a sweet, nutty flavor.

“Our sorghum is sourced from farmed acres enrolled in a regenerative agriculture project and that have adopted practices such as cover crops, no-till farming and fertilizer use efficiency,” said Paula LaBine, ADM’s marketing director of milling and baking solutions.

Amaranth is grown all over the world, including in the United States. It is a very small, light-colored grain with a distinct peppery, earthy flavor.

“It is rich in lysine, an essential amino acid that is often limited in other grains,” Fiesel said. “Amaranth also has emulsifying properties that improve the stability and texture of food products. The starches in the grain will gelatinize at a lower temperature, which is helpful for thickening sauces and soups.”

The opportunities to formulate with ancient grains appear infinite. And the outlook on consumer acceptance is positive as they become more familiar with the grains, their flavor profiles and unique textures.